Montenegro to Japan

My side trip through the Balkans has sadly ended and unfortunately ended sadly. A little more on that a bit later…

First though, I begun this trip with the question ‘what is the attraction to tour cycling?’ From this relatively short trip, here are my thoughts on some related questions I was asking myself before I began.

 

Will I enjoy this?

Yes, I absolutely loved it! I found that being on a bike gave me more of what I love about travel; freedom & adventure. There is no bus or train schedules to worry about, in fact, there is no need even to know where the stations are. When you’re ready, you just head out the door and start pedaling. Also, some of the best days were the ‘free’ days where I wasn’t traveling from A to B, but just got on my bike to have a look around and followed whatever road looked interesting. I ended up in a load of interesting places I could never feasibly have gone by foot, car or any other way.

The pace was also absorbing – fast enough to keep the scenery changing and interesting, but slow and quiet enough to take photographs and notice the sites, sounds, and smells that wouldn’t be possible from a car, train or bus.

It also didn’t take away from any other aspects of travel. I still stayed in hostels, met a lot of people, and did the kinds of things I’d normally do when traveling.

Won’t I get lonely?

This turned out to be quite the opposite. It was always easy to meet people on the road – people often had an interest in my story whenever my bike was loaded with my gear. Also, it was easy to meet others in the normal ways that you do when you travel – in hostels, at cafes, tours, etc. Of course, it is the people that make a trip special and on these travels, I was lucky enough to share some great experiences with very cool people and begun some new friendships that hopefully won’t end with this trip.

There were also times where it was people overload. On some days I was repeating my story a dozen times or more and this could be quite tiring. After a couple of days at the particularly social hostels, I felt the need to just get away and start pedaling and be by myself.

I was fully expecting to get a little lonely while on the bike sometimes and had prepared for it. I’d bought a set of speakers that fit on my handle bars that could plug into my iPhone and had downloaded a load of Spotify playlists and audio books. Right from the start though, I just found the music and books annoying and found it surprisingly easy to be immersed in the scenery and my thoughts (http://youtu.be/MtObrnaovrI). So the times when I was alone, I was anything but lonely.

Will it be too hard work and will I get tired of it quickly?

No, not at all. In the route I did, it was very easy to control the distance of each ride. Interesting towns were rarely more than 50 to 80km apart, which is about the typical distance I’d do. The hills were a bit of a strain to begin with, but after a few weeks my conditioning got pretty good and by just chugging away in a low gear, I didn’t mind them too much by the end – Particularly as hills normally mean good scenery and of course some nice downhill to follow.

It would probably be a different story if my aims were different. My intention was never to cover great distances or reach an end destination within a certain time. It was just to travel slowly and see the parts of the country that I want to well and spend a few days in the places that I liked.

I met a few other cyclists whose aims were to cycle all of Europe – or even the world (see later on in this blog) and they would typically cover 80 to 150 kms in a day with fewer rest days. My enjoyment of the journey generally declined after around 70kms, so I’m not sure that that kind of journey would be for me.

My journey ended up being about 1,300 km plus another 20 km vertical climb!

 

Will it be difficult to navigate?

I never used any maps other than GPS on my phone. I had a local SIM in each of the countries that I went to with good data packages, so most of the time it was quite straight forward to find good routes with little traffic using Google maps, Map My Ride and TomTom as a last resort.

Most of the other cyclists that I met were using maps, but for this part of the world, I didn’t find them necessary.

Have I packed the right equipment?

Being a greenhorn at this, what to pack was a bit of guesswork, but I went with my normal approach of ‘less is more’ and that anything I needed could be purchased along the way.

The one thing I would do differently for this part of the world is to take this even further and leave all the camping equipment behind. This made up about two thirds of the bulk and weight of my panniers, but in the part of Europe that I went to, and in the shoulder season, accommodation was cheap, good quality and plentiful. There were times when having the equipment added a bit of security when darkness is closing in with no town in site, but having less weight would have been better on some of the rougher trails.

Next time I probably wouldn’t bother with panniers and take only a small backpack strapped to the carrier which contained a few layers of merino wool tops, shell jacket, some shorts, a few days of underwear and socks, a small traveller’s towel, jandals, toiletries, iPad mini and keyboard cover, and battery charge pack and cables for the iPhone and iPad. This is exactly the same as I would pack for a normal multi month summer trip actually.

Would I do it again after this trip?

Absolutely! I found this to be a fantastic way to experience travel and this world of ours. I already have some ideas of destinations in the future. Top of the list is my own country!

This is how the last week or so of my trip ended:

From Split, it was down to Dubrovnik. The bus driver took a little convincing to take my bike, but with the front wheel and handle bars off, it fit in nicely.
Dubrovnik was beautiful
…stunning actually. It’s easy to see why it is used as the set for Kings Landing in Game of Thrones.
Much of the city is still showing the scars of the shelling from the war
There was an incredible crush of tourists though – even in October with no cruise ships in. I can only imagine what the place would be like in summer. After an evening exploring the streets and a morning walking around the walls, I decided there was nothing more for me there and escaped the tour groups for the solitude of the bike and road.
Due to the last minute decision and without planning the route, I wasn’t sure if the border crossing at the southern peninsula would be open on a Sunday evening. There was barely a car on the road, and if it was closed it would mean 25km of backtracking in fading light. It was one of the few times that I was glad to have camping equipment with me.
To say I was relieved when I saw the border crossing open would be an understatement. The poor guys at each of the checkpoints must have one of the loneliest jobs in their respective countries.
Into Montenegro, I made my way to the closest town, Herceg Novi.
The next day was one of those that just seemed effortless – completely immersed in the surroundings and barely noticing the energy spent cycling around the majestic Bay of Kotor.
To the captivating town of Kotor, a town that everyone seems to find hard to leave.
In the particularly social ‘Old Town Hostel’, I met not one, but two fellow tour cyclists staying there. We spent the next day cycling further around the Bay of Kotor.
With Ed & Sam
Ed is on a two and half year journey around the world in support of several charities. His story is on his website www.thirstycyclist.com.
They call him the thirsty cyclist as the carbs from beer are pretty much his only source of energy for his long days of cycling.
We would have cycled much further had we not been distracted by coffee and beer
Father and son submarines
Traffic on the Vrmac Trail
Kotor
After sangria night at the hostel, everybody went to a local club for Karaoke. Oh dear…
The next day was a slow one. Some of us summoned the strength for a 40 minute climb to the top of the city wall.
The next day, it was on the road again. This time, up the coast to Budva.
And on to the town of Sveti Stefan. It was a good way to spend the last day on the bike, and with great company.
Sadly, it was on this day that I heard my grandfather had taken a turn for the worst. He died the next morning.
Further down the coast in the town of Bar, I was looking for a way to get to Podgorica to fly back to Austria. The logistics to this aren’t straight forward given that I needed to find a way to pack up the bike and get it to the airport.
On the way to the bus station, I stopped off at a bike shop to see if they had any old boxes that I could use. When I told them my story, Dragije (below) took me in his van for an hour to his other shop which happened to be right next to the airport, packed up the bike with his staff, took me for a beer and had his son, Stefan, drop me at a hotel and pick me up the next morning for a coffee and to the airport for my flight to Vienna. It’s this kind of kindness that really fills the heart with warmth.
Seeing my family for the first time in over six weeks, knowing it would be the last time for almost three, and you want to make every second count. It was a serenely beautiful autumn day and we did make every second count, before leaving early this morning for a plane to NZ.
Today it was scarcely believable that I was cycling in Montenegro just two days ago as I am homeward bound stopping over in Tokyo where I met up with Kanna.
We haven’t changed a bit since she was an exchange student staying with us in Palmerston North twenty years ago!
…well only a tiny bit

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