Farewells in Nepal

The first leg of our travels together as a family has drawn to an end and we decided we’d try and go out with a bit of an action adventure bang!

The kids and I steeled our stomachs for some paragliding in Pokhara berfore making our way South to a Chitwan National Park safari via a three day rafting and canyoning adventure down the Lower Seti river.

Now, we have gone our own ways for the next little while with the kids and Iris heading to Austria for some school time and to be with Iris’s parents. I have decided to stay on around in Nepal after getting inspired during our recent trekking experience around Annapurna.

Pokhara is regarded as one of the world’s premier paragliding spots due to the consistency of conditions and the incredible Himalayan backdrop. Unfortunately they weren’t on show the morning we headed out.

Nevertheless, the kids rated the experience a ’10/10′

It was my turn to take one for the team as both Iris and I don’t do well with motion. It was about at this point that I started getting flashbacks to the last time I did this 15 years ago in Mendoza, Argentina, where the contents of my stomach ended up narrowly missing a picnicking family down below. Thankfully I managed to hold my breakfast in this time around.

Sofia needed some recovery time also!

The next day we headed to the Lower Seti river for a two day rafting trip to take us down to Chitwan National Park.

The river has a relaxing grade II / III level of rapids at this time of year, so ideal for families and gave heaps of opportunity to make our own fun

It was sad to see dozens upon dozens of tractors and trucks illegally extracting gravel and stones. This has already severely impacted the river for rafting and has been ecologically disastrous. The activity goes unchecked and when combined with mega hydro schemes in development and increasingly polluted rivers, means the future for river sports is looking grim. All very sad for a country so heavily reliant on tourism.

Popcorn and marshmallows at our beautiful campsite were a hit!

Our second overnight camp had a nearby farmhouse where Sofia was feeding this fella

And then it was off canyoning – a sport which involves making your way down a canyon in whatever manner you can.

Worryingly, the feedback after we do these kinds of things is the kids want bigger, higher, scarier and faster the next time!

Then it was a short local bus ride to Sauraha in Chitwan to try and spot some Rhinos. We didn’t need to go far with this fella bathing in the river bordering the park and the town

While we were contemplating how best to see the park, we heard reports come in of a rhino attack that day on an Australian tourist and his guide which left him in a critical condition with a broken back. It is the most dangerous time of the year apparently to go on safaris by foot due to mating season. In this case, the tourists surprised the rhino who charged to protect their young.

We decided that Iris and the family would go on a Jeep safari but I was still keen to explore on foot – until we woke up to severe thunder storms!

It cleared enough for us to get in our canoe for an hour ride down the river without the boat fulling with rain water.

If an actor were to play our guide in a movie, it would definitely be Morgan Freeman!

We didn’t see a rhino while on foot, but the constant rolling thunder in the background and the chance of a potential close encounter made for a terrifically atmospheric walk.

We saw many rhino by jeep, which is probably a better way to get up close!

There was a lot of other wildlife out and about including this monitor lizard

We were all saddened to see how elephants are kept for elephant rides, which have historically been how people explore the park.

After three and a half months being with the family 24/7, it was difficult to say goodbye at the airport. I’ve decided to stay on a bit to continue with a few more outdoor adventures while I am here and have the opportunity.

The kids gave Nepal an 8.5 out of 10. Like us, they found many aspects of the country similar to its big neighbour India, but also different – often in a positive way. There is a lot less traffic and horn honking and the people chattier. It was noted that the still spit everywhere!

I’ve begun my solo travels by exploring the Kathmandu Valley over several days with Rakesh (right of pic) and his mountain bike buddies who go out and explore different parts of the valley each weekend.

Rakesh’s response to my question about roughly how long we’ll be riding resonated with me – ‘It’s difficult to say… the wheel will lead and we will follow’

The wheel turned out to lead us very far – 60kms of weaving through the narrow alleyways and traffic of Kathmandu, into the countryside, and up some hills into some singletrack.

If there is a better way to explore an area than on two wheels, I’m yet to find it!

Now I am off to the Everest region although not sure when I’ll get there. Unfortunately the airline I was due to fly with had a plane that crashed on Sunday and my flight was subsequently cancelled… I get the feeling patience and flexibility are going to be useful attributes over the coming weeks.

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Comments

  1. Wow Humm Family – you guys take the Action Packed Travel prize for sure! There is a book (from this blog) just begging to be written about all your adventures. Very interesting to hear about the Chitwan National Park Safari and sounds like nothing has changed since I was there in the 90s. My travelling partner went on foot and had the most terrifying encounter with a rhino. He just got up a tree and his legs out of the way before the rhino charged horn- first into the tree. I guess Health & Safety hasn’t progressed much in the intervening years … glad you all made it through that adventure safe & sound. All best for the next leg of your travels xx

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